Holy Molie, It's November! Where did THAT come from? O.K., it's cold and the start of winter is a just a whisper away, that means we have to turn our attention to inside stuff. Inside this edition of the RoadHouse we have some good stuff, two product tests, a trip to the Jimmy Dean Festival and a closer look at the number three killer of motorcyclists. If that's not enough, we'll throw in some cold riding tips and a plan to keet riding `till Christmas and beyond!

Sound good?! Pull on them gloves, slap on the full faced helmet and fire that baby up! It's time to ride!

If any of you have read my previous articles or graduated from a Motorcycle School, you already know that the number three killer of motorcyclists is turns. What I want to focus on in this piece is the most dangerous turn we face, the decreasing radius turn. The most common decreasing radius turn we contend with is the ramp on the interstate, however decreasing radius turns are common in hill country and mountain regions. Let's first focus on the anatomy of the turn and the effect it has on the motorcycle.

A motorcycle has to lean to turn. If the rider leans `out' as the bike leans `in' the path of travel is effected. Instead of turning, the bike will continue in a straight line. The rider must `lean' with the bike to maintain a constant and `smooth' path. As a motorcycle leans into a turn side forces come into play. The energy created by the driving rear tire and the force exerted on the first tire (from counter steering) force the motorcycle to `resist' the turn. This is because of the rake (angle of the front folks) and the trail (distance of the front tire from the frame) are designed for straight line travel. All bikes have different designs, however most Harley's are designed for touring, thus the rake and trail are set up for optomen straight line travel. In a turn the operator must over come the centrifugal force generated by the turn and the design of the steering geometry. This is done by leaning with the bike and by holding constant acceleration. Constant acceleration though a turn `forces' the suspension down onto the road making the motorcycle stable. Rolling off the throttle in a turn unloads the suspension and causes the bike to drift outward and makes steering inputs unresponsive. Maintaining constant throttle and a smooth line though a curve gives you control. As the front tires leans into the curve, the tire contact transfers from the face of the tire to the sidewall. The inside of the tire has a smaller diameter than the face, thus the motorcycle `slows'. Constant acceleration over comes this `slowing' and forces the motorcycle's suspension to force the front tire back into the road. This gives you maximum control and traction. Looking at a motorcycle's front tire gives you clues has to the type of riding it's owner does. Heavy wear in the middle of the tread face indicates long, possibly interstate trips. Even wear across the face may indicate all around riding. The motorcycle will follow the front tire as long as the front tire is pressed into the road.

Any turn the motorcyclist encounters presents problems-blind exits, gravel, loose surface conditions, lane blockage, etc. All turns should be treated the same way every time you ride-slow, look, lean & roll. Slow before the turn, lean with the bike, look far ahead to the exit point and roll on the throttle.

Let's look at some specific problems and how to overcome these situations. First, what if you can't see the exit point in a turn? The answer is to slow the motorcycle to a controllable speed before the turn. In this situation, expect your exit point to be blocked. Always expect the worst scenario when you can't see a clear path of travel. Second problem, your too fast into the turn and the motorcycle is starting to drift outward. This is the most common problem for motorcyclists. Here's some things you can do. Press the handlebar in the direction of the turn while maintaining constant throttle. This maneuver causes the bike to lean further into the turn and decrease it's turning apex. What if parts of the motorcycle start to drag? Parts scraping on the pavement may cause the motorcycle to `hop' or possibly to low side, however it's better to scrape than to drift into a guard rail or oncoming traffic. If this maneuver won't work, then two other maneuvers might, if you have practiced them. The first requires smoothness and deliberate inputs to the bike. Gently and briefly apply both brakes as you maintain constant throttle. This will slow the motorcycle slightly and may buy you more time to make the turn. The second option is purely life saving. Jerk the motorcycle vertical and (looking straight ahead) apply both brakes, stopping as quickly as you can. This maneuver is used when you cannot complete the turn and a crash is imminent. A third possibility exists. This is one I have practiced and have used successfully. Jerk the bike vertical, apply both brakes quickly, release, then lean back into the turn and accelerate. While this move sounds dicey, remember that your trying to avoid a crash and if you practice this in a parking lot under ideal conditions you can make this maneuver successful. Practice and training are the key to survival. Lane positioning for decreasingly radius turns is extremely important. Positioning before you commit to the turn is critical for your safety. Look far ahead and plan your entrance or exit from the ramp. The accidents I have investigated all have a common theme. The motorcyclist was focused on the car entering the freeway or leaving the freeway. They tried to plan their exit or entry speed too late or were distracted by something else causing a delayed reaction in setting up for the turn. The result was leaving the roadway or laying it down.

As in all things motorcycle, train & practice constantly. Get to know your motorcycle and your abilities. Trouble comes in milliseconds, decisions in split seconds. Ride to survive. Arrive alive.

This month we have two products tests that will increase your safety and also make great Christmas gifts. The first is the Nolan N100 Full Face Helmet. This helmet has serveral features that are comfortable and designed for today's motorcyclist. The front of the helmet unlocks and lifts up into a 3/4 position exposing the rider's face. This is a big advantage when stopping to get a drink, talk or just get some fresh air. With a quick pull down, the helmet snaps back into a full face helmet. The venting system in the helmet is another design I found enjoyable. Most of the full faced helmets I've had in the past all suffered from the `fogging' of the face shield. Nolan designed a vent system that uses air `pulled' from the back of the helmet reducing fogging to a minimum. In tests I've ran at various temperatures (37 - 74 degrees) the face shield stayed vented and clear, even sitting at traffic lights. The peripheral vision on the helmet was not effected by the `swing front' design nor the comfort of the helmet. The chin strap uses a `seat belt' design that allows the rider to adjust the chin strap to a comfort position individual to each rider. The only draw back to the helmet is the two button release system. It requires both hands to release and lift the front of the helmet. I would prefer a single button to accomplish this. HJC employs a single button release on some of their helmets currently. Other than that slight nuisance, I highly recommend this product. The Snell approved helmet is popular in Europe and looks great. It comes in several colors and designs, including the four color `flash' designs. The price is $190.00 retail and is available through Benson's. See April in Motorclothes.

Another product I tested was the new retroreflective flames from NightHawkers. The sheet of retro flames are designed to be placed on any surface to increase your visibility. My Nolan helmet is flat black and I chose to brighten it with retroreflective `flames' from NightHawkers. The flames come in a variety of colors & styles. I chose the white & silver decals to put on my helmet. The decals come on a sheet of paper and are pre-cut, peel off, self adhesive stickers. You can custom design your pattern or follow the directions and use the standard design supplied with the stickers. The visibility from the decals are very bright and reflect light from a long distance. In the tests conducted with Teresa driving behind me, we found I was visible up to a 1/4 mile away. This is especially important in the rain or at night. The decals sell for $25.00 dollars and are only available though the mail or on-line. Contact NightHawkers at Ph. 505-647-0380 or on line at www.nighthawkers.com.

Saturday, September 29, dawned bright and beautiful for the Jimmy Dean Ride. John Parker held a safety briefing for the assembled riders at Benson's and before you could say, "That's hip, man", we were on are way to Fairmont. John led the 30 plus bikes along the back roads right into Fairmont and our parking area, so quickly in fact that the ride seemed like only minutes. At the festival it was literally like walking into the 50's. Do-Wop music played everywhere, people walking around in clothes from the era and the CARS. Everywhere the cars. Each one more beautiful than the last, each one creating a memory from my past. There was the `70 302 Boss Mustang that I got my first ticket in, the 69 Ford Falcon I got slapped in, `65 Chevy I tried to soup up and ruined, and the `68 Chevy that drove me to the airport and my military service. Ahh, memories!

The real story from the festival was the people, our people- Americans. This was the first time I had seen a group of us out since September 11th. This was the first time I had seen all of us enjoying ourselves and smiling again. THAT was the best part of the festival.

John then took us to Upland and to Ivanhoe's for ice cream. It was a good day. Thanks John.

Some cold riding tips for the coming season. First, it's O.K. to ride as long as the ground is dry. The only true danger to cold weather riding is the road conditions and hypothermia. The road conditions you can plan for with short hops via the Weather Channel. The cold part can be acceptable if you follow these basic guidelines. First, it's ALWAYS colder than you think. Plan on more layers of clothing that will keep you DRY as well as warm. Breathable material is a must for multi-layers. Second, concentrate on the area that will get cold first-the hands & feet. Spend the money on the gloves & socks that will work for you. I rely heavily on my heated gloves and thick socks from late October till mid April.

Most of your body heat escapes from the head & neck area. Studies indicate that 90% of heat lost occurs from the head and neck. A full faced helmet and neck scarf or polar neck warmer works well. If all else fails, get the heated electrical suit from Harley. It's pricey, but it works! And last, but not least, ride a minimum of 20 miles to get the engine warm enough to burn out any water in the oil to avoid condensation from forming in the crank case later. Oh, and pretend not to be cold in front of the cage drivers!

It's time to close out this session. I don't have the space for the stats from the school, so I'll bring those to you next month. Also, looking ahead, two products tests are nearly complete. The H-D Battery Tender has just completed it's five year test and a report on Harley's full finger/mitten gloves.

At this time of Thanksgiving I'd like to express my appreciation and thanks to Mike Kelly, Rick Robertson, Mike & Debbie Sheets, our Activities Committee, our wonderful Road Captains, the beautiful Ladies of Harley #1277 and Chris Hiatt. The last couple of years have seen a lot of `firsts' for our Club and for our sport. It's the people who come forth and put an extra effort into our Club Rides and Events that make motorcycling so much fun. The hard work and constant effort they have put in for us, the membership, is beyond words. I simply say, Thank You. And I invite you, the membership, to come forth and volunteer. Get involved. Help lead our Club to new heights. And more fun.

Until we ride again, think warm, think fun, think 1277!